Moss has a separate catalog of all Kilmartin products. Price was 35 including VAT.
The seat belt is fully adjustable from toddler to adult sizes but does, in fact, have a warning that it is not suitable for children under But it seems fine to me and I figured this was a better option than no belt! Finally, one small change from my last email. The steel reinforcement plates I referred to were actually large square washers from Halfords and I put them above and below the mounting surface for the brackets. I am about 2 inches low in the back and need to get back original ride height.
I no longer have to drag road kill down the highway for twenty miles until it is ground down enough to pass under the car.
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The spring replacement was the best thing I've done to the car to make it fun to drive - altho I still flinch when backing out of the driveway. BTW, Doug did not use the Moss springs. Doug professed much better quality in the spring's Hemphill sells.
I'm not sure what the brand was Lee '62 BT7 Tri-carb The moral cannibalism of all hedonist and altruist doctrines lies in the premise that the happiness of one man necessitates the injury of another.
The Moss sets don't seem to keep their arc as long. It pays to make sure the leaves are not stuck together no matter what brand you get. This can be a particular problem on some springs which are assembled before the paint on the individual leaves has dried.
I think the Teflon is used for lining double-hung sash windows. His car's ride is extremely smooth compared to my buckboard which hasn't had the springs done yet.
Originally I believe the rear springs had zinc strips between the leaves, which was changed to what appeared to be white nylon for BJ8's so teflon ought to be a great substitute. I see many leaves stuck together in the repro springs and if they are installed like that it feels like the rear axle is welded to the chassis.
The first thing I do with a new pair is stand them up on the ends and jump on the centers -- if my hurtling 16 stone won't move them I know that a teardown with inserts is required. Sometimes you can get away with just injecting some grease between the leaves early XK series Jags had an elaborate rear spring gaiter but if you have the time and the will, strips between the leaves is a great way to go.
I'm not sure whether or not the concours judges deduct points for rear springs without zinc or plastic.
Iam desperatley looking for a die cast model of the A. H Frog eyed Sprite. If you know of any information or of someone who may be able to help me please could you e-mail me at mattrhodes cwcom.
Freese at Aerojet. There are many very good pictures of Jensen racing his S. The article goes into some of the mods made to a standard as well. I recently replaced my broken throttle pedal spring.
The Moss replacement seems to be made of wire a few thou thicker than the original metric? Thus the new spring becomes a too-snug fit on the metal bushing which goes between it and the pedal rod.
When you put your foot on the pedal and the spring is compressed, the hole in the center of the spring needs to shrink in diameter. Because of insufficient clearance between the bush and the spring, this is not possible and all the flexing the spring does is on either end and not in the middle.
This has the effect of making the throttle pedal very stiff in operation as well as unduly straining the spring ends.
Since I don't have a lathe to turn down the bush, I found that by putting a leftover felt throttle rod bushing inside of the spring instead of the metal one, the throttle pedal got a lot more limber.
Moyer at millersville. How, that is, to replace the lower radiator hose on my BJ7. I jacked it up, let it down, took the driver's side wheel off, put it back on. Is it easier from the top or the bottom? The radiator and frame seem to block access for anyone but Houdini. How about a right angle screwdriver? I remember someone once suggested taking the radiator part way out. That seems radical.
It seems that having it on a lift would help, but I don't have a lift.
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Any ideas? Bill Moyer, nursing split knuckles. The issue is safety, wear and ride. If it is concours, use the zinc inner layers. If it is a driver, I think the teflon would be a fine substitute if it will wear well. Has any one had some experience with the teflon over time and miles? The advantage over cutting your own from teflon sheets is the perfect fit of the side lips which "grip" each leaf.
This way, there is no way for the material to work its way out of the spring pack. Those from Horton are called "Poly-Ride". I would advise that it is very important that each spring leaf be carefully restored. I used an knotted wire cup brush, I'm sure that bead blasting would do a good job as well. Any wear spots or ridges should be ground out to ensure a smooth surface, followed by a dip in phosphoric acid or other rust treatment and a couple of coats of paint.
This will minimize the friction between the leaves and the liner material. One complication that may result comes from the thickness of the liner material, in my case it was.
My solution was to fabricate new U-brackets with suitably longer legs. This allows better access to the radiator attachment of the lower radiator hose. To make it easier to remove the hose next time, I smear a little anti-seize grease around the inside diameter of the hose before putting it on. Moyer millersville. That way you can swing the bottom of the radiator forward to access the lower hose from underneath where it clamps on without taking the radiator all the way out.
That should make any future removal much easier.
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Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop Netscape! Simply remove the 4 lower radiator bolts and loosen the two uppers, swing the radiator forward and job is a piece of cake. I had a look at their web site - www.
The actual belt manufacturer, Securon, may be a better bet - try www. Concours people take note! Also, a properly prepared and painted surface will be smooth, and more easily allow the leaves to move against each other.
While you might like a nice black color, you certainely want first your springs to do their job and theiy only do it if the leafs can slide with respect to each other. Francois Find a job, post your resume. Pros and Cons of a regrind Cylinder Overbore? How much over All responses are, as always, greatly appreciated. Will travel for the right car.
Re: BN4 Grille
During dismantling I found the piston bearing bush in pieces and also lots of little rubber parts from the piston seals. Can wrong specification brake fluid have caused this damage? So far I have always been using DOT 4. I don't have an email address and cannot relay responses. I had my cam reground to late , and the performance gain was remarkable. I had to use a special offset woodruff key to get the valve timing right, but as I recall, this was specified in the grind spec the machine shop used.
No problems at all. Don't neglect to renew the cam bearings. Overbore- No.
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At the time, I had a very difficult time locating Six pistons, as none were available. I ended up having special ones made by Arias in So Cal. I think pistons are much more widely available now, but Arias is still there, and the cost was roughly the same as buying a set off the shelf.
I was considering boring out to cc, on the advice of several specialists, but I had mixed reports regarding this. The block is a different casting than the The danger is, even if you don't break through into a water jacket, that the material left has diminished heat transfer capability, and a Healey needs all the help it can get in the cooling system anyway, so Fred Meyer "Bradley H. It was done on my BN7 when rebuilt and even with the stock carbs I could finally keep up with the tricarbs and BJ8s.
Wife having back surgery 2 and need to sell some puppies Chow-Chows ,and enuf' parts so i can sleep in the garage while my M. HoYo ps gotta assortment of pc and network cables and adaptors too!! I think a good polishing would forgo a rechrome , i think a mounting tab is missing I have a 62 BT7.